One of the symbols of the Tuscan landscape and countryside is the olive tree, just as olive oil is one of the excellences of our cuisine. Autumn is the time of harvesting and pressing of olives, with a ritual that repeats itself in the same way for hundreds of years, mixing tradition and innovation.
Everywhere in the countryside you can see groups of farmers who take care of the collection of olives by sliding their hands up and down each sprig, to make the fruit fall on the net previously laid on the ground. This is the traditional method of “brucatura”. Other traditional alternative methods are the “bacchiatura” in which the branches are hit to drop the olives, the “pettinatura” in which the branches are combed with rakes and the “racattatura” in which the olives are made to fall spontaneously and then harvested. Then there are the mechanical methods that in recent years have been very improved.
After harvesting, the olives are taken to the olive oil mill, a processing centre where the olive oil is extracted exclusively by physical means, “cold” pressing, without chemical intervention. Today the olive oil mills are for the most part centralized and hygienically and qualitatively controlled, in the past instead each farm had annexed its own plant.
The olive oil has a millenary history that began in the Middle East; but it was the Ancient Romans who allowed the spread and marketing of this product throughout their empire. In Tuscany it arrived around the middle of the VII century BC; in the Middle Ages the cultivation of olive trees has a significant increase especially in the areas around Pisa, Lucca and Florence.
While in ancient times olive oil was a rich food consumed almost exclusively by the higher social classes, later it spread throughout the entire population, going to replace animal fats such as lard.
Let’s see now which are the most common varieties of olives in Tuscany: Moraiolo, Leccino, Frantoio.
The Moraiolo variety originates in Tuscany but it is cultivated in every hilly areas of central Italy. Harvesting takes place in mid-November, the olives are small to medium, black with purple hues. It provides a very valuable olive oil, rich in polyphenols and oleic acid. Moraiolo olive oil has a golden-green colour, a fruity, bitterish and slightly spicy taste. It goes well with raw vegetables, salads, fish, shellfish, soups and stewed meats.
The Leccino variety is widespread throughout Italy because it can adapt to different soils. Harvesting takes place in November and the fruits (also destined to the table) are black-purple colour, medium in size and oval in shape. The olive oil is golden yellow with greenish hues, has a low acidity and an excellent balance between bitter and spicy. At the table it goes well with bruschetta, vegetable soups, fish soups, grilled meats.
The Frantoio variety is present throughout Italy and abroad, adapting to various types of terrain up to a maximum altitude of 600 meters. Harvesting takes place in mid-November, the olives (destined for both production and table) are medium-small, ovoid-shaped and black-purplish colour. The olive oil is dark green with golden hues, fruity with hints of spicy and bitter. Today it is appreciated in the nouvelle cuisine. it goes well with grilled meat, bruschetta, fresh tomato and vegetable soups.